![A history lesson @ Sostanza [il Troia]](http://thecuriouseater.com/wp-content/themes/thecuriouseater/js/tt.php?src=http://thecuriouseater.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/sostanza_02_2012_005.jpg&w=620&h=929&zc=1&q=100)
A time machine. Florence can feel like that at times. But sometimes, it’s a welcome feeling. A history lesson inside every doorway. Where time stands still and things are the way they were meant to be.
As soon as I walk into Sostanza, I sense this is an exceptional place. Time has had little effect. The daily menu has been the same for a century. Why change?
Massimiliano, one of the co-owners, welcomes me. A history lesson follows. Sostanza’s origin goes back to 1869; a starring role for Guido ‘Il Troiaio’ [‘a dirty man’], his unfortunate death in a post WWII bomb attack [while on his bike to get groceries]; a name change from Troia to Sostanza in 1977 [note that today most Florentines still only know Troia]. On the walls, the history is for us to see, from the family to the legendary to the regulars.
I get a chance to eat lunch with Jean-Carlo ‘Il Fabro.’ Every day for the last 41 years, he’s been at his table: first one from the entrance, next to the original marble counter and under a picture of himself as a young playboy in the 50’s. At 82, he remembers Massimiliano as a little boy, and how much Florence has changed. He hasn’t lost his charm, or his sharp wit. “In life you should do everything in moderation. Drink a little, smoke a little, and live a little.” A wise tutor.
The food arrives. Primo: ‘Tortino ai carciofi’; secondo: ‘Pollo al burro’ and a side of ‘cime di rapa.’ I rinse with a glass of Chianti and clean my plate ‘italian style’ with a piece of bread. Delicious!
More customers arrive. Amongst them, a woman who revisits Sostanza again after 30 years and finds the place as she left it. A distinguished Florentine couple is next: the husband takes his wife’s coat and pulls her chair … an episode from times passed. After, a collection of regulars who all seem to know each other.
Massimiliano turns to me and says: they are our story. The people of Sostanza: pictured on the wall, in the kitchen or enjoying their meal. And of course, Jean-Carlo, the icon, who is sitting next to me. Making a bit of history.
Trattoria Sostanza [Troia], Via della Porcellana 25 r, 50123 Florence, T +39 055 212691
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Sabrina 4 March 2012
Brava Sofie!
E’ il mio ristorante preferito a Firenze…e tu sei riuscita a coglierne l’anima…
Sofie Delauw 4 March 2012
Grazie Sabrina!
michela 10 March 2012
sembra davvero un luogo magnifico, sembra che li il tempo si sia fermato a 60anni fa!!!bellissimo
Sofie Delauw 11 March 2012
Grazie Michela!
Leann Rowe 16 March 2012
Four of us are coming to Italy in May. We will be in Florence for 3 nights. A friend told us to eat at Sostanza. Should we make reservations? Also do you know of a restaurant that has a “kitchen table” we could eat at in Florence? We were also told we should eat at Trattoria Mario’s for lunch one day, do we need reservations there? We would welcome any suggestions you may have. We will be taking a day trip to Sienna while in Florence. Any lunch or dinner suggestions?
Any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Leann
Sofie Delauw 19 March 2012
Ciao Leann! For Sostanza I would definitely make reservations [best to use the same strategy for all good restaurants in Florence]. For Trattoria Mario [very Traditional Tuscan fair] you can not make a reservation, but part of the charm is standing in line as you wait for your table
. I could recommend all the places I talk about on The Curious Eater 
… if you browse trough the articles, I am sure you will find something that fits your taste, ‘A kitchen table’ you could experience @ ‘Ora d’Aria’, ‘Olio e Convivium’. Have a great stay in Florence!
Sabino 8 August 2012
one of the seven best restaurants of Italy (can you believe it?)
as usual, splendid pics !
http://www.thedailybeast.com/newsweek/2012/08/05/101-best-places-to-eat-europe.html
Ingrid Svensson 4 November 2012
Love the pictures and love the background on the restaurant! My husband and I will be joining friends from Stockholm for 10 days in Florence and we would love to share this restaurant with them. Can you help us to make a reservation? We will be in Florence the last week of November and would ideally like to have dinner on Saturday, November 24th. Please let me know how we can get reservations. This article has really piqued our interest. Thank you for the pictures and the write up! IRS
Lori 27 January 2013
How happy I was to stumble across your blog! I have been to Florence 3 times and each time I eat at Sostanza. I also recommend it to all my friends who visit Florence. This place is truly a gem! I am coming to Praiano in May…do you have any suggestions for food on the Amalfi Coast? I can sense, from your review of Sostanza, we might have a lot in common with regards to food!
Sofie Delauw 30 January 2013
Ciao Lori! Happy to hear you enjoy the blog
. Close to Almalfi I’ve had a wonderful dinner [you can eat outside] at Il convento. You can read more here: http://thecuriouseater.com/eating-outside-tuscany/cetara-a-tiny-almalfi-coast-town-famous-for-its-salted-anchovies-delicacy/
Gayla 4 April 2013
We’re planning a return trip to Florence this spring and are looking forward to having a meal at Trattoria Sostanza. I’m really glad I stumbled upon this post. This sounds like a lovely place to experience local color and cuisine.
Robin 2 May 2013
My husband and I have been visiting Firenze every year (sometimes twice) for the last 17 years. (I know: che culo!) This is absolutely our favorite place to eat. We manage to go at least every other day for our entire stay – which is usually about a month. You just can’t get tired of the great food, the lovely people, the homey atmosphere. I’ve been photographing this place for almost two decades. Your photos are the best! Thanks!